Pinkberry: The Pre-Hater Nuances His Previously Groundless Opinion

So a couple of nights ago, after work, Ulrike and I went to Pinkberry.  After an unsatisfying lunch (remind me to tell you about Belly Deli someday, it's pretty remarkable) we figured that we deserved to go buy more food.  Now I must confess to a strong, some may say virulent, pre-hatred of Pinkberry.  As a former Angeleno, I was dubious of the breathless discussions of its singular perfection and delight.  Fool me once (Pink's) shame on you,  fool me twice...

As we walked the long avenue block to Pinkberry's, I told Ulrike about my distaste for the foodie blog fervor about the opening of a Pinkberry's in New York,  my contrarian take on why it would be that people would wax poetic about the Zen-like simplicity of its menu, its lack of options.  I also complained about the walk from the subway station, signalling my weariness and despair by heaving my tote bag from shoulder to shoulder, sighing. 

Pinkberry was not, at 6:30pm on an early October Monday, very crowded. There were a number of young Koreans at tables sharing large, topping-spangled yogurts.  There were also a number of looky-loos, stepping into Pinkberry tentatively, pointing and talking in hushed tones. 

Ulrike wanted to reprise her initial order, but we compromised (I don't love Cap't Crunch.  I hate what it does to the roof of my mouth, and the in-mouth crunch resonance is the exact harmonic frequency to crack out fillings and destabilize tender roots and dentin.  No thanks!) by getting berries and Cocoa Pebbles on a medium plain yogurt.  For thoroughness' sake, we also got a small green tea yogurt, no toppings.

OK, first of all.  Something about Pinkberry made me feel delighted from the moment we stepped in.  Remember Wallpaper* magazine back in the good ol' days?  When Tyler Brule ruled the roost and told you which Valextra carryall would look most fetching in the Lufthansa first-class lounge?  when you could read about British stockists of Italian design inspired by Brazilian music?  Like, remember zebrawood? 

Pinkberry looks like that.  Even the music, instrumental chill-out-room fare,  feels giddily dated.  Heck, the whole thing feels so...pre-9/11. Caveat--the Phillipe Starck Ghost chairs are wobbly and uncomfortable. Design often photographs better than it performs.  I could go on and on discussing Pinkberry's non-food qualities for hours and hours--Ulrike's right; the floor is beguiling.

But when it comes down to it, the frozen yogurt at Pinkberry is...great.  It tastes cold and tangy, i.e. frozen and yogurt.  The texture is nice, having more body and less icyness than you would anticipate, as it is non-fat (or at least billed as such).  The berries and cereal were great--I think the raspberry worked best, because it disintegrated a little, emulating the non-frozen yogurt eating experience.  Unlike regular yogurt, you can't really do too much spoon-blending with the frozen yogurt, so it was a little harder to integrate the blueberries into each bite--I think next time I'll opt for blackberries. 

Green tea was good too--I think the blogosphere disparagement is unwarranted, though Ulrike and I conceded it probably wouldn't blend as well with toppings as the plain.  We finished all the yogurt very quickly, and Ulrike noted how, as soon as you finish your Pinkberry, you want more Pinkberry.  This is true.  But I think it has less to do with the sublime flavor than it does with its lack of sustenance.  Plain nonfat yogurt, frozen and aerated and served up stingily (the conical swirl in the cup was totally hollow on the inside--treachery!) is not very filling, and the handful of delicious toppings is just enough to get the juices flowing--like a mid-morning snack that only speeds the lunching urge.

This brings me to my general take on Pinkberry:  It's delicious.  It's fun.  It's cute.  It's unlike anything else. It's unnecessary.  I don't really need a destination for a chilled confection.  When it's hot out, I'll just listen for the inimitable sound of a Mister Softee truck, or better yet, seek out a Campari and soda somewhere dark and wood-panelled.  Nonetheless, it would make a delightful coda to a Korean meal (the block of 32nd its on is laden with delicious Korean choices).  I also wouldn't be able to resist one if they opened a few movie theater concessions (IFC, anyone?).  I just can't see myself making a point to go to Herald Square again for an all-too-fleeting sense of delight.

Comments

[Barletta Natatorium]

I, too, gave in to all the hype and stopped by pinkberry yesterday. I have little to add except to say that I loved it too. The juicy berries! The crunchy Cap'n Crunch (which I normally dislike)! The strange bland deliciousness of it all! I wanted not to like it, to be contrarian and above it. I wouldn't wait in line for hours for it, but I would happily stop by again. Chantal?

[Leland]

I love how the cynical Epifurious gang got sucked in by the Pinkberry hype. Maybe this weekend you can all stand in line at the Magnolia Bakery! Ha!

You have convinced me that it's worth a try, though, and your commentary is the most useful Pinkberry information on any of the NY food blogs. When people ask me what I think of Pinkberry, I'll just tell them that it's very "pre-9/11." Even though I haven't been yet. Perhaps Barletta will take me up there one day soon.

[kleiler]

okay, all that Wallpaper stuff was excellently assholish...and oh my god, there's a lot of blogging about pinkberry (ooooo, could those last three words constitute wiRgo? lyrics, methinks so)
but...this is going to make me cry...I could have walked there:

[kleiler]

AAAARRRRGH, THAT WAS SUPPOSED TO BE A PIC OF PINKBERRY AT 6TH AND BERENDO...with the caption "expect a traffic jam"

[Chantal]

Allons-y!

[Ed]

For any of you that are interested, I kind of wrote a blog entry about the influences of Korean culture on Pinkberry and that particular style of tart, fruit topping style of yogurt. Check it out if any of you guys are interested (just click my name).

[Ed]

For any of you that are interested, I kind of wrote a blog entry about the influences of Korean culture on Pinkberry and that particular style of tart, fruit topping style of yogurt. Check it out if any of you guys are interested (just click my name).